December 3, 2006
We departed Key Largo in the dark and were Bahamas bound at last!
It was a rough crossing (rough for us) with reasonable waves of two to four feet to start, then increasing to an uncomfortable six to eight feet on the nose as we approached the Gulfstream. Part way across, the dinghy, (on top of the sundeck) started to slide back and forth on the chocks each time the bow pitched down into the waves. After a few more minutes, the movement was increasing and we were afraid that we might lose the dinghy as it slid back and forth. Alan immediately turned the boat to sit in a trough between the waves, so that we could put on our life jackets and crawl out onto the sundeck roof and tie extra lines to secure the dinghy. After which, it was back into the waves and the rocking and rolling continued for another four or five hours. Needless to say, the adrenaline was pumping for both of us. We were indeed thankful to sight Cat Cay at about 2:00pm.
Alan hoisted the yellow quarantine (Q) flag as we entered the harbour, which one is required to do until customs and immigration have been cleared. The cost to dock long enough to clear customs at Cat Cay was $100 and it was only an additional $30 to dock for the night, so we stayed and caught up on email using the wi-fi at the waterside bar, while we waited for the bar to open for happy hour.
December 4, 2006
We departed Cat Cay Yacht Club and anchored just outside the harbor for the night.
December 5, 2006
We departed Cat Cay, heading for the Berry Islands. Once again, it was windy and the seas rougher than we enjoy. Tired of being bounced around, we decided to anchor just off Mackie’s Shoal, which is just a shallow reef in the middle of nowhere, but we were hoping that we might get some respite from the waves and be fortunate enough to have better traveling conditions in the morning.
December 6, 2006
No such luck. After a night of bouncing and rolling, we were up and away once again, and the wind and waves were every bit as ferocious as the previous day. Again we hung on as the boat pitched, rocked and rolled for about another five hours. We have learned that we have a very strong boat and that she will take a far greater pounding than the crew. Sometime in mid afternoon, we entered Great Stirrup Harbor which was protected from the rough seas. Most of the time, it is a quiet harbor, unless Royal Carribean or Norwegian Cruise Lines has a ship docked for a beach and water sport day on their private islands. Today was quiet with three sail boats and us at anchor.
December 10, 2006
Today was a trip to Bullocks Harbour by dinghy. The resident Norwegian Cruise Line staff, Higgy (Canadian), Mort (Norwegian) and Freddy (South African) led us the shortcut through the mangroves.
We docked the dinghies beside the ferry and walked to the local watering hole
for a great fried grouper Sunday lunch, complete with the Bahamian trimmings of peas & rice, baked macaroni & cheese, potao salad and coleslaw, all washed down with a cold.Kalik.
That evening we were invited to dinner at Margaritaville (the house where the staff live on Great Stirrup Cay) for Higgy’s famous BBQ ribs. It was a fun evening and we were able to email a birthday message to our son Graham and catch up on some correspondence because of their generous offer to use their email.
Due to the rough weather, no cruise ships came into Great Stirrup Cay during the six days that we were anchored there. Royal Carribean owns Cocoa Cay, the small island just off Great Stirrup Cay and they generally have five or six cruise ships each week, and due to some storm damage
to some of their docks, they also had no ships visiting.
December 12, 2006
Although the winds and seas were still up, conditions had improved and we decided that a change of scenery was inorder. Conditions were rougher than we had hoped but by the time that we realized this, we were committed. We headed south and decided to anchor at Little Harbour Cay where we planned to have dinner at Flo’s Conch Bar. As we approached Little Harbour, we hailed Flo’s on the VHF radio, as requested. The restaurant is very remote and rustic and they ask for notice at least three hours prior since they only prepare food if they know they have guests. We were given the menu over the radio and asked to order in advance. Menu choices were; Bahamian lobster, fresh grouper or a hot dog! Naturally, we ordered the lobster and what a feast it was at just $17 per person. Our friends on Dream Ketcher (fellow Texans from our home port in Houston) heard us on the radio. They too were anchored in Little Harbour Cay so we met them at Flo’s. Being the only customers, we had a great visit and an exceptional meal.
Normally Flo has fresh baked bread for sale, but she was away visiting the US while we were there. Her son Chester, who is the only other permanent resident on the island treated us royally and gave us lots of local knowledge regarding sights to see.
December 13, 2006
Another windy day. Dream Ketcher left this morning bound for Nassau. We watched them head out through the cut off Cabbage Cay and they were doing a lot of rocking and rolling, it looked like an uncomfortable ride and long day ahead of them. We decided to stay another day in the hope that the winds would die down.
We spent the day exploring the local area and had a picnic lunch on a nice sandy beach. After which we visited the inland blue hole. A deep hole completely surrounded by land and fed by under ground sources from the ocean.
December 14, 2006
We were up at daybreak and the weather did not seem to have improved much. None the less, we upped anchor and headed out the cut off Cabbage Cay bound for Nassau. We rocked and rolled every bit as much as Dream Ketcher did the day before. We were hopeful that once we got into deep water the waves would calm and become more of a swell with a greater period in between, thus giving us a smoother ride. Wrong! This was the roughest crossing so far. Thankfully our auto pilot could hold the course so Alan and I just basically hung on for dear life for the next ten hours. Thankfully, I moved anything that was likely to fall over and had all my cupboard and closets tied down with bungee cords. Any cupboards that seemed like things might rattle or roll around, stuffed with pillows or pieces of foam. Everything that could be tied down was. Regardless of all the preparations for rough seas, the storage benches and boxes on the sundeck all gently eased forward every time the boat pitched back and forth. The sectional sofa in the salon below had traveled right across the floor from the port side all across to the starboard side. We arrived outside of Nassau tired and deflated. As part of the preparations for sea, we removed all ropes and fenders from the decks and so decided to anchor off Rose Island so that we didn’t have to put out dock lines and fenders. We dropped anchor, had a well deserved cocktail and then it was straight to bed for these two tired, weary sailors.
December 15, 2006
Today was a day to put our ship back in order before we headed into Nassau Yacht Haven. There we caught up with our friends on Dream Ketcher. They took us over to the Green Parrot at Hurricane Hole Marina for a beer. There we commiserated about both of our rough crossings.
After our rough crossing, the navigation computer decided to give up the ghost. Apparently it was the mother board that was gone and it was not worth fixing again. Along with our trip to the grocery store to re-provision, we had to find a place to purchase a new computer. Thankfully we met with success at the local mall just a few blocks from the marina.
It started to rain just as we came out of the grocery store and we did not want to get the new computer wet so we hailed a cab. It was about an half mile trip back to the Yacht Have and cost us $9. Welcome to Nassau.
December 16, 2006
Laundry morning before Alan’s sister and family arrive from Canada for a visit.
Gill, Wayne and boys meet us in Nassau. Weather appears reasonable so after everyone is onboard, we head off to Rose Island for some snorkeling and beach time. The northwest end of the island is where the most of the reefs appear to be and where the tour boats take their snorkellers. There are some magnificent white sand beaches along this however, as was the case today, there is frequently move wave action here than is desirable for overnight anchoring. That being the case, we proceeded to the other side and the protection of West Bottom Harbour, where we launched the dinghy and kayak for beach exploration where we found numerous large conch shells and lobster skeletons. Brandon and Fraser had a great time with these beach treasures. We ferreted around for driftwood and dead trees and built a beach fire, where we enjoyed a gourmet feast of hot dogs roasted in the fire with the occasional grain or two of sand ummm, yummy. Tired from the days activities, we packed up and headed back to the boat, tied up the dinghy and headed for bed.
December 17, 2006
Susann awaoke about 2:00am and did the usual visual check to ensure that the anchor had not dragged and that all was as it should be. The kayak was floating at the back of the boat but no dinghy. Quickly checking both sides of the boat – no dinghy. It was pitch black, no moon and the wind and waves were up. There was nothing we could do until daylight. Needless to say, we up, radioed BASRA (Bahamas volunteer coastguard) and pulled the anchor at first light. Alan checked the charts, tides and wind direction and we went out to search in the direction the dinghy might have drifted. The waves were too rough to get in close to shore and scanning the coastline with the binoculars proved fruitless. We headed into the Harbour Club Marina in Nasaau where we reported the loss over the radio and to the police. Our friend Gene off of Dream Ketcher heard our story over the radio and took Alan in his dinghy to search the coastline. By this time the wind had increased. Alan and Gene circum-navigated the island to no avail and returned absolutely soaked to the skin. Several cruisers, including Peter the marina manager told us that the dinghy was likely stolen. Word has it that approximately 1000, yes, that’s one thousand dinghys disappear annually. Apparently the thieves only want the motor and most often just slash the pontoons and sink the dinghy. To add insult to injury, our insurance company (Progressive) informed us that the dinghy was not covered in the Bahamas.
Here we are in the Bahamas, guests aboard, Christmas holidays and no dinghy!
December 18, 2006
Nassau Harbor Club – attempt to get another dinghy
December 22, 2006
New dinghy arrives
December 23, 2006
Snorkelling day off Rose Island – overnight at anchor
December 24, 2006
Dream Ketcher joins us for apps and drinks. Heather and family arrives.
December 25, 2006
Merry Christmas! Dinner at dockside.
December 27, 2006
Junkanoo
December 28, 2006
Today we anchored at West Bottom Harbour, off Rose Island and enjoyed a family beach day and another milestone for Tanner – his first trip to the beach, complete with his life jacket for the dinghy ride.
Since it was Brandon and Fraser’s last night onboard Kaos, we had a magnificent beach fire, cooked hot dogs on a stick and roasted marshmallows. Of course, there was a little wine consumed by the adults. It was a warm but windy evening and low tide was fast approaching. We decided it was time to return to Kaos and loaded everyone into the dinghy. Alas, with the wind and low tide, the beach was exposed for miles and the dinghy was on bottom. Oh well, we’ll just push her out into deeper water. Wrong! We pushed, pulled and dragged the dinghy for two hours and were almost back to the boat when she was finally able to float. Tanner was a trooper, all the while in his life jacket. Heather sang her Kaos song to him. “Granma and Grandpa have a boat, boat, boat and it needs water to float, float, float”. As time wore on, we were all singing the song, and I’m sure it is forever ingrained in everyone’s memory. All’s well that ends well and we eventually arrived safe and sound back at the boat.
The moral of the story is – no more beach fires for us at West Bottom Harbour.
December 29, 2006
Looks like another Kaos moment in the making as Gil, Wayne, Brandon and Fraser depart for Nassau airport by dinghy for their flight back to Vancouver. Since conditions looked favourable (at least for the trip over) Alan decide to take the new dinghy rather than up anchor and take the big boat, so they all loaded onboard, complete with baggage.
Heather, Dave, Tanner and I remained at anchor. Gramma got to spend some quiet time with Tanner while Mom and Dad took a quick kayak trip.
Life was certainly quiet and somewhat lonely without Brandon and Fraser.
December 30, 2006
Tanner (our #2 grandson at 7 weeks) enjoyed his first dunk in the ocean at West Bottom Harbor, Rose Island, Bahamas. It looks like we have another water baby in the family.
