July 4, 2008

Cast off lines at 5:30 am for departure to Tadoussac, on the north shore of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Saguenay River. It was a beautiful sunny morning as we departed Basin Louise; a fitting farewell with the sun shining on the Chateau Frontenac and the old town as a back drop to the tall ships - Bluenose II and the Beleem.
The seas were calm and we were treated to some stunning scenery along the route

 By mid afternoon, the wind strengthened to about 10 knots from the southwest, creating wind against tide, which is never a good scenario. As we approached the entrance channel into Tadoussac, the situation was intensified with the wind funneling straight down the Saguenay Fjord, causing a boiling effect on the sea and strong rip currents.

The winds continued to freshen to about 30 knots from the south west giving us a rough ride coming into the harbour. As we fought our way into the entrance to Tadoussac Harbor, a whale (likely a minke or fin) jumped completely out of the water alongside of us and did a three quarter twist before re-entering the water. It happened so suddenly, it took a second or so to register. We could clearly see the pointed head, black back and white belly, and guessed that it might be about fifteen to twenty feet in length (about the size of a small boat). Two others then jumped around the boat but conditions were not suitable to quickly get the camera.

Since the weather was not great and we were all tired from the challenge of the last two hours of travel, it was decided that the annual Fourth of July hamburgers aboard “Lionheart” would be postponed. A quiet night was spent aboard.

July 5, 2008
Tadoussac is a charming village of about1000 inhabitants, but the population grows significantly during the summer when tourists flock to see the whales and visit the Saguenay Fjord. Tadoussac Bay is known as one of the worlds thirty most beautiful bays.

Tides range between twelve and eighteen feet so be sure to anchor well off shore or you will find your boat high and dry at low tide.

 We dinghied into town to find the post office and visit the whale interpretive center. Here we learned that the beluga whale is the only whale able to turn its head. They feed just outside of the harbour at the mouth of the Saguenay River. Boats are not permitted to come within 1200 feet of the belugas, and if they approach a boat, it must stop until the whale dives or moves away. Apparently studies have concluded that if boats come close to the whales, they shorten their dive time and consequently receive less nourishment, which may impact their winter survival when they migrate south.

We departed Tadoussac shortly after noon, heading up the Saguenay to Baie Eternitie, about thirty miles away. Once in the mouth of the Saguenay, we spotted several belugas. The adults are white and are easy to see on the surface, even at a distance when the waters are calm.
As we progressed past the mouth, and up into the Saguenay River, we did not see any more whales. The scenery up the fjord was magnificent. The river was wide with huge granite mountains on either side.

Cap Eternitie  and Cap Trinitie guard the entrance to Baie Eternitie, the most beautiful spot on the fjord. We arrived shortly before five in the afternoon, and were able to pick up a mooring ball for two nights (it is to deep to anchor).

Wow! What a beautiful place.
We were invited aboard Lionheart for cocktails with Sue, Richard,  Ed  and Barbara (Pacific Pixie).
It was time to kick back and absorb this gorgeous scenery while we celebrated a belated Fourth of July with a cocktail and Richard’s burgers.



July 6, 2008

Today the skies were clear and the sun was shining. It was a perfect day for a little exploration of the bay by dinghy. We picked up Sue and Richard and headed to the park dock to register and pay our mooring fee and took this opportunity to dispose of our garbage. A picnic lunch had been prepared and enjoyed at the base of one of the many waterfalls cascading down the base of the mountains and into the bay.

The black flies were out in abundance today, and despite being covered with repellent, they were pesky and biting. Perhaps they too appreciated some warmer temperatures and sunshine. After lunch we continued our exploration by water.

July 7, 2008
As usual, all good things must end. It was time to depart Baie Eternitie and head south, back to Tadoussac. There was a weather warning for strong south westerly winds until midnight. That said, we wanted to be anchored back in Tadoussac Bay before the wind funneled down the Saguenay fjord. Once at anchor, we dinghied ashore to find the grocery store and later enjoyed dinner aboard Lionheart with good friends.