Perce Rock & Ile de Bonneventure

July 12, 2008 Perce Rock & Ile de Bonneventure


Riviere de Madeleine is a quaint commercial fishing village. This morning we dinghied ashore, walked the village and purchased some lobster and mussels from the local seafood outlet.

Returning from the seafood outlet

There was a sailing flotilla in harbour, which was sailing from France to Quebec City for the 400th anniversary celebrations, and the returning home.

After returning to our boats, we watched the flotilla depart, and were glad we weren’t with them since conditions offshore were less than ideal. We weighed anchor and followed the flotilla out of the harbour. Our destination was Perce Rock.

Today is a special day. We are travelling to Perce Rock, one of Canada's most photographed land marks. It is time for Susann to get a check mark on on her “bucket list” – to see Perce Rock up close and personal!

That is "Lionheart" peeking through the hole in the rock.
 We toured both the front and back side of this awe inspiring hunk of rock located just offshore from the town of Perce. In fact, one can walk out to the rock from the beach at low tide. It is the size of several large city blocks.

After viewing Perce Rock, we circumnavigated Ile de Bonneventure, a nesting sanctuary for the white northern gannets, located just offshore from the town of Perce.  Mid July means that many of the chicks have hatched and are being protected in the nests by the female birds, while the male birds are busy searching the sea for seaweed or fish to feed the family. Once the male returns with a beak full of food, the colony bursts into a loud uproar.

Beyond the gannets there are common murres, razorbills, and puffins, which brings the total number of nesting birds on Bonaventure to about 250,000.

One can visit the island by ferry and take a two-mile to the gannet nesting site. The gannet nesting site is well staffed with park rangers who supply information and make sure that the close human/bird interaction is not stressful to the birds. It is amazing how little fear the birds have of humans, who are seen as a non-threatening presence.
The sea at the eastern edge of the Gaspe Peninsula is a whale-rich environment, where the land drifts off to a substantial open ocean. In fact, the word Gaspe comes from the language of the local Amerindian tribe, the Micmacs. Their word "gespeg" meant "land's end." We did not encounter any whales today, but one of our buddy boats spotted a "basking shark" on the water

“Kaos” & “Lionheart” opted to spend the night at anchor in the Chandler Harbor. Once inside, it was quite rolly, but we hoped that as the evening progressed the wind and swell would subside. Susann was cooking up the two lobsters purchased that morning, and since it can be a messy meal, we decided to dine up on the fly bridge where we could enjoy the view and fresh air. The rolling continued and every so often, we would have to grab our wine glasses and hold on to them, which made it more difficult to crack the lobsters and certainly made dining a lot less enjoyable. It was the last straw as Alan’s wine glass toppled, throwing white wine all over him; he hoisted the anchor and tried to move closer to the breakwater without success, so we headed into the marina. Once docked, we learned that you cannot anchor in the harbor on Saturday evenings since a large cruise ship arrives at about 10:00pm. With that information, we called “Lionheart” and they too moved into the marina. It is a nice marina, reasonably priced at $1.00 per foot. There is 30 amp power at some docks and others with 15 amps. There is also a seafood restaurant on site.

Tadoussac to Riviere de Madleleine

July 11, 2008

Early breakfast aboard “Lionheart” (Richard’s blueberry pancakes and corned beef hash) to discuss possible travel plans. The winds were strong from the west and veering to northwest. The collective decision was to remain in port. Following breakfast, the winds started to abate, and two smaller sail boats departed the dock. After studying the satellite weather and determining that winds were diminishing and seas starting to lay down, Captain “Kaos” decided we would cast off our lines and go out and give it a try, with Riviere Madeline as our destination, about a 55 mile run.

Once out of the harbor and the bay, seas settled to less than two feet, coming from the northwest, winds were light and the sun was shining. Once under way, we received up to a three knot push from the currant, which increased our speed without increasing our fuel consumption, so all in all it was a great day to travel.

We anchored inside the rock break wall and spent a quiet evening.



July 10, 2008 Ste. Anne des Monts

Great cooked breakfast in town, and very reasonably priced. Grocery stores are about a three block walk and internet is available in the building housing the cinema, just next door to the SAQ (Quebec liquor store). Unfortunately internet service is only available from 3:00 – 8:00pm.
After that substantial breakfast, we walked the waterfront and admired some of the unique driftwood carvings along the route.

Weather day spent in St. Anne des Monts. Winds gusting to 40 knots. Strong winds overnight as cold front passed.



July 9, 2008

In the company of “Lionheart” and “Pacific Pixie” we departed Rimouski at 4:30am for the 103 mile trip to Saint Anne des Monts. Although slightly warmer than yesterday, it was another cool, misty day. The cruise guides indicated that regardless of departure time, we should experience up to a two knot push from the rear. The winds were forecast to be from the south west and combined with the anticipated push from currant, we expected a good cruising day. Once out of the harbor we found the wind blowing from the north east and a head currant – not what we wanted. We encountered a lot of large swell which later developed into chop causing a lot of pitching and making for a less than comfortable ride. Pacific Pixie decided to pull into Matane, while “Kaos” and “Lionheart” elected to continue, hoping conditions would become more favorable, which they did for some of the trip. After an eleven hour run, expending more fuel than usual; we arrived at the St. Anne des Monts harbor of refuge, where we tied up for an early night and some much needed sleep.
Showers and laundry facilities are available at the marina, but no fuel or pump-out. Dockage was ninety cents per foot.


July 8, 2008

This morning was cool and cloudy as we departed Tadoussac Harbor, heading for Rimouski on the south shore of the St. Lawrence. As we crossed the bay, we saw the back and dorsal fin on a couple of whales, most likely minke or fin whales. It appeared that they were feeding and just surfacing occasionally for air. There were no spectacular breaches today.

The St. Lawrence is a large body of water, and is very deep and cold, likely about 50 – 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Without the sun, the air temperature continued to drop as we headed further from land. As the rain started, we began adding layers of sweaters and jackets to stay warm. Amidst the mist and rain, we have seen numerous seals pop their head above the water to look and see what we were all about. Unfortunately the weather was not conducive for taking photos.
Rimouski Harbor was a welcome sight, and upon arrival, we found the locals to be friendly and helpful, despite our limited use of the French language. A female dock hand spoke English and was helpful. The local high school english teacher welcomed the opportunity to converse in English and was happy to drive the captains into town for some needed parts.
We had an excellent seafood dinner in the marina restaurant.

July 4, 2008

Cast off lines at 5:30 am for departure to Tadoussac, on the north shore of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Saguenay River. It was a beautiful sunny morning as we departed Basin Louise; a fitting farewell with the sun shining on the Chateau Frontenac and the old town as a back drop to the tall ships - Bluenose II and the Beleem.
The seas were calm and we were treated to some stunning scenery along the route

 By mid afternoon, the wind strengthened to about 10 knots from the southwest, creating wind against tide, which is never a good scenario. As we approached the entrance channel into Tadoussac, the situation was intensified with the wind funneling straight down the Saguenay Fjord, causing a boiling effect on the sea and strong rip currents.

The winds continued to freshen to about 30 knots from the south west giving us a rough ride coming into the harbour. As we fought our way into the entrance to Tadoussac Harbor, a whale (likely a minke or fin) jumped completely out of the water alongside of us and did a three quarter twist before re-entering the water. It happened so suddenly, it took a second or so to register. We could clearly see the pointed head, black back and white belly, and guessed that it might be about fifteen to twenty feet in length (about the size of a small boat). Two others then jumped around the boat but conditions were not suitable to quickly get the camera.

Since the weather was not great and we were all tired from the challenge of the last two hours of travel, it was decided that the annual Fourth of July hamburgers aboard “Lionheart” would be postponed. A quiet night was spent aboard.

July 5, 2008
Tadoussac is a charming village of about1000 inhabitants, but the population grows significantly during the summer when tourists flock to see the whales and visit the Saguenay Fjord. Tadoussac Bay is known as one of the worlds thirty most beautiful bays.

Tides range between twelve and eighteen feet so be sure to anchor well off shore or you will find your boat high and dry at low tide.

 We dinghied into town to find the post office and visit the whale interpretive center. Here we learned that the beluga whale is the only whale able to turn its head. They feed just outside of the harbour at the mouth of the Saguenay River. Boats are not permitted to come within 1200 feet of the belugas, and if they approach a boat, it must stop until the whale dives or moves away. Apparently studies have concluded that if boats come close to the whales, they shorten their dive time and consequently receive less nourishment, which may impact their winter survival when they migrate south.

We departed Tadoussac shortly after noon, heading up the Saguenay to Baie Eternitie, about thirty miles away. Once in the mouth of the Saguenay, we spotted several belugas. The adults are white and are easy to see on the surface, even at a distance when the waters are calm.
As we progressed past the mouth, and up into the Saguenay River, we did not see any more whales. The scenery up the fjord was magnificent. The river was wide with huge granite mountains on either side.

Cap Eternitie  and Cap Trinitie guard the entrance to Baie Eternitie, the most beautiful spot on the fjord. We arrived shortly before five in the afternoon, and were able to pick up a mooring ball for two nights (it is to deep to anchor).

Wow! What a beautiful place.
We were invited aboard Lionheart for cocktails with Sue, Richard,  Ed  and Barbara (Pacific Pixie).
It was time to kick back and absorb this gorgeous scenery while we celebrated a belated Fourth of July with a cocktail and Richard’s burgers.



July 6, 2008

Today the skies were clear and the sun was shining. It was a perfect day for a little exploration of the bay by dinghy. We picked up Sue and Richard and headed to the park dock to register and pay our mooring fee and took this opportunity to dispose of our garbage. A picnic lunch had been prepared and enjoyed at the base of one of the many waterfalls cascading down the base of the mountains and into the bay.

The black flies were out in abundance today, and despite being covered with repellent, they were pesky and biting. Perhaps they too appreciated some warmer temperatures and sunshine. After lunch we continued our exploration by water.

July 7, 2008
As usual, all good things must end. It was time to depart Baie Eternitie and head south, back to Tadoussac. There was a weather warning for strong south westerly winds until midnight. That said, we wanted to be anchored back in Tadoussac Bay before the wind funneled down the Saguenay fjord. Once at anchor, we dinghied ashore to find the grocery store and later enjoyed dinner aboard Lionheart with good friends.

Touring Quebec City & Area

July 3, 2008 Quebec City Celebrates it's 400th Anniversary

Today is the big day, Quebec's 400th birthday. We awoke to torrential rain, which continued all morning. As a result, we passed on attending the official opening ceremonies with the politicians and dignitaries. The weather kept some of us away but did not dampen the city's enthusiasm. The rain subsided late afternoon and by evening the skies cleared in time for the fireworks extravaganza; the largest display in Canada's history. Spectacular it was. and for us a fitting end to a fabulous few days in this magnificent city.

C'est une bonne soiree!

Bonne Fete Quebec

July 2, 2008

We  spent today playing tourist in this majestic city, steeped in history, and now celebrating its 400th anniversary. The day started with a bus tour through both the old city and Le Vieux Port (old sea port) to view the visiting Tall Ships. 

Quebec City has done a superb job of maintaining it's history and culture, and at times it was hard to believe that this is North America and not an old, quaint town in Europe. Our driver/tour guide was extremely knowledgeable   and kept us on schedule. During the afternoon we took a mini bus tour of the countryside north of Quebec City, where our stops included a walk about at Montmorency Falls, which overlook the St. Lawrence Seaway. At 250', the falls are higher than Niagara Falls, which are much wider and appear more grandiose.

Our ride took us on a rather eclectic tour into the farm country and a series of stops which included a chocolate factory, an old country bakery, some farms, fruit stands.
The final stop was a visit to St.-Anne-de-Beaupre Basillica. A magnificent and very large Catholic Cathederal, where many infirm claim to have been healed by a miracle.

This is evidenced by the large display of crutches and canes etc., left by the recipients of the miracle.

Canada Day in Quebec City

July 1, 2008 “Canada Day”


Today is Canada Day and after two busy days of sightseeing, we opted to spend a quiet day aboard the boat. Susann & Sue walked to Metro grocery store (about a fifteen minute walk from the marina) to re-provision. Laden with provisions, we took taxi back to marina, a good deal at just $5.50.

To celebrate Canada Day, we invited fellow “Loopers” – “Lionheart”, “Gandalf”, “Tortola”, “Pacific Pixie” and fellow AGLCA member Al Levesque, the Commodore for Club Nautique Le Vieux Port (local yacht club) and his wife France for happy hour aboard “Kaos”. As usual, this became an extended happy hour with a great exchange of information taking place. Vivre le Canada! A great time was had by all. We were all tired and did not make it to see the fireworks, which didn’t begin until after 11:30pm.